All of our expert crews follow these essential steps to ensure proper attic insulation installation:

Seal all attic air leaks (most insulation does not stop airflow!).

Use a tightly constructed box to cover duct exhaust fan housing on the attic side. We also seal around the duct where it exits the box and seal the perimeter of the box to the drywall on the attic side.

Cover openings (such as dropped ceilings, soffits and bulkheads) into the attic area with plywood and seal to the attic side of the ceiling.

Seal around chimney and framing with a high-temperature caulk or furnace cement.

At the tops of interior walls, use long-life caulk to seal the smaller gaps and holes and expanding foam or strips of rigid foam board insulation for the larger gaps.

Install metal flashing blocking to maintain fire-safety clearance requirements (usually 3 inches) for heat-producing equipment found in an attic, such as flues, chimneys and exhaust fans. We also include light housings/fixtures unless the fixtures are IC (insulation contact) rated; IC rated lights are airtight and can be covered with insulation.

Make sure insulation doesn’t block soffit vents to allow for proper attic ventilation.

Check the attic ceiling for water stains or marks, which indicate roof leaks or lack of ventilation.

Insulate and air seal your attic access if it’s located in a conditioned part of the house.

Properly insulate and air seal any knee walls or vertical walls with attic space directly behind them.